The Mani

The Mani is situated on the middle finger of the Peloponnese on mainland Greece. It is divided into two distinct and very different areas, the Outer Mani (in the province of Messinia) and the Inner Mani (in Laconia), the boundary between running from Oitylo to Githeo. It is very rich in scenery with the intimidating mountain range of the Taygetos to the east dominating the coastal plain. In the wealthier Outer Mani to the north the foothills are gentle and fertile being turned over to Olive groves and the coastline beautifully indented. The villages along the coast turn into small resorts in the summer months. The Inner Mani, the peninsula to the south is remote, barren and subject to hot dry winds from Africa. At the tip of the inner Mani lies Cape Matapan, the southern most point of Greece and of Europe. Here was situated the temple of Poisiden where the ancient Greeks believed the souls of the dead gathered before they made their journey to the underworld. The site is now occupied by the 6th century ruined church of Asomati.

According to Greek mythology the Taygetos (where all the walking takes place) is named after Taygheti, whose beauty attracted the lustful gaze of Zeus. Torn by shame Taygheti put an end to her mortal life by leaping off a cliff on the mountain.

The main axis of the mountain peaks forms an almost straight ridge north to south with the highest peak, Profitas Ilias rising to 2404 metres. On the western side (the Outer Mani) there are large ravines including the longest gorge on mainland Greece.

The main village of the outer Mani is Kardamyli, named after Kardamos the son of Lakon who was the first king of Lakonia. (Lakonia is now the province south and east of Messinia). Kardamyli has retained the same name for over 3000 years as Homer in the Illiad records that it was one of the 7 towns offered by Agamemnon to Achillies to persuade him to return to the battle for Troy. The village is charming, the main street flanked by old houses with several shops, tavernas and kafeneons. At the southern end of the village is the harbour overlooked by a watchtower.

A little further south is Stoupa, the centre for our walks. It is a modern village developed after the Greek war of independence in the 1830’s. It lies on a fertile coastal plain with Olive groves surrounding the village and creeping up the hillside. It is the main tourist resort for the area, has 3 wonderful beaches, a small harbour with a fishing fleet and many Hotels Apartment Houses and Tavernas. It is a quiet resort with no nightclubs, disco’s, jet skies or Karaoke bars.

South of Stoupa are the villages of Agios Nokolaos and Trachila, also on the coast. Inland are many small villages where the walking takes place.

Just to the north of the Outer Mani lies Kalamata, the capital of the province of Messinia. It also has a long history, its origonal name being Pherea, a Mycean settlement. The airport lies some 4 km out of the town and is the major point of entry for visitors to the area. It lies some 240 Km from Athens.